August 28, 2012

Surfing in Montauk - NYC Diaries

The moment we had to carry the surfboards on our heads, I knew I was in trouble.

"Holy heck, this is heavy," I thought to myself as I followed my roommate Julia and our laid-back surf instructor Jeremy to our surf lesson at Ditch Plains Beach in Montauk, East Hampton.

I've wanted to go to Montauk ever since I arrived in New York. I had read so many articles about the area as the place to be this summer and more importantly the place to surf. We took the Hampton Jitney (love, love the jitney) from Manhttan to Montauk to try and catch some waves for the day. Catch some waves? Ha! That phrase sounds as simple as catching a baseball.

Okay, let's get one thing straight: surfing is not even close to playing baseball. Not even a little bit close.

Thoughts that crossed my mind during my land lesson:

  • Wait, we're paddling all the way out where?! 
  • Without any sort of life jacket? 
  • What colour did I reach in swimming classes again?  

Thoughts that crossed my mind once paddling to sea: 

  • This is so cool! Kate Bosworth, eat your Blue Crush heart out. 
  • Oh man, why did I watch so many episodes of Shark Week? 
  • Ack! My arms are weaker than over-cooked spaghetti.  

Thoughts that crossed my mind while trying to surf:

  • Riding this wave is not so hard lying down. Wooo!
  • Okay, Amanda, try and stand up. 
  • *Slips off board* 
  • Ahh! I'm underwater!!! 
  • Ahhh I'm going to drown!!!
  • Where is my board?! 
  • Get up!! 
  • Ahh another wave!!
  • What did Jeremy say about getting back? 
  • *board smashes into body* 
  • *knees scape on rocks* 
  • Let's try that again. 

All in all, I never fully stood up on the board like Julia, the could-be-pro-surfer who was riding waves like she was secretly raised in Hawaii, but I did the best I could considering my fears and it was more than enough for me.

Afterward, we rinsed off and relaxed on the beach. As we sprawled out on our towels, I relished in the quiet sound of waves curling onto the shore, the whistle of the air twirling around in the sand, the sensation of my skin tightening from the sea-salt and the soreness from my limbs from trying something new.

After being engulfed in the busiest city of them all for an entire summer, I finally could hear my thoughts again. I sank my feet in the sand and decided that the best place to catch a wave will always be in-between my toes.

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